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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.